I could talk about California for long but at the Fouquet’s and everywhere else this week (Crus, Grain Noble) all my attention has been focused on the winemaker of TerraVin, an original persona that has no more than 4 hectares in the Marlborough region of New Zealand, giving birth to some sensational wines.

Photo: Mike Eaton (right) @ Crus – Paris (Romik, Left), One of the rare place where you can find TerraVin in France

Here is his story.

Mike Eaton is one of those dreamers that made their dreams come true. The creator of Terravin once lived in a garage, planted his pinot noir and changed it in wine. Now he lives in a beautiful house and makes fantastic wines from 7 different varieties, all in Marlborough, Omaka Valley , New Zealand.

In 1981, Mike was working as a general laborer for wine in NZ. After nine years, like many wine-dreamer, he reached France, the legendary wine country, to learn. So he did in Burgundy, Pouilly sur Loire and the Jura. This is where Mike observed, memorized and built up the experience that today makes him so special. “As good as you can work in the winery, nothing will replace a good terroir and the right treatment of the vine” says Mike, “it is important to understand nature and try using less chemical to reach the right balance”. This philosophy, his field experience, together with an adventurer spirit, are Mike’s secrets.

After having tried his elixirs, one can only support his enterprise. His Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are great successes. I personally recommend the TerraVin Sauvignon Blanc 2008, with a very strong herbaceous nose, it makes you pose and feel the unusual. I particularly like the energy it releases through what Emmanuel Delmas called the tension, or “sharp final” given by a citrus and crunchy fruits finish.

In 1998, Jo and Mike sold finally sold their land and settled in the Omaka Valley, on a hill renamed TerraVin (Earth of Wine), a north facing slope wonderful for its soil and climate – cool in the evening and hot during the days. It is where Mike and his family went on writing their story with Pinot Noir. They also source other grapes from different vineyards on which Mike keeps an eye. All of his choices are daring for others but right for him. He, for instance, planted some varieties in soils in which they were not usually grown, resulting in the most original and happily surprising wines, just like him.

My crush is definitely the TerraVin, Hillside Reserve, Pinot Noir 2006- this is also his favorite. Burgundy, is Mike’s adoptive land and probably why he is so good at it. Grown on the best soil Mike and Jo have for Pinot Noir, Hillside 2006 is the most elegant year, still full of punch and fruits. Juicy and meaty, it is very promising as Le Sommelier already said.

Not to mention, his rare Grain Noble, that was a premiere and hopefully not a “dernière” for this drops of gold that surprised a whole French assembly of connoisseurs.