Just like it is hard to escape from French wines in NYC, going out in Paris, you can hardly escape the bio trend: “Bio” for organic in French.

So, as I am more likely to go out in Paris than in any other city, I may as well try to get used to this whim – One that seems to be a long-term pattern rather than a Parisian caprice.

I still have a hard time liking most of the bio wines; the egg nose, scents of volatiles and blurry colour are not my cup of tea. I must also admit a few are done well and lead to pure pleasure. After all, like when to become an adult you had to adapt your palate to coffee, endives and oyster, like ten years ago it was all about powerful wines and strong oak, you must now soften for unoaked wines and find your inner bio self. Hear, if you want to be able to drink wine with your trendy Parisian hot friends.

Gladly, most of the restaurant and wine bar with a bio soul are also full of life, simplicity, coolness and charm. I specially like the wine bar le Garde-Robe, in my dear rue de l’Arbre Sec (75001). Robin is Australian and specialises in organic wines and wonderful tartines (A thick bio slice of bread with toasted cheese and smoked ham ). You should also try her soup shots and foie gras bagels. Simple, authentic and served with a smile. What else ?

This bar is one of those that mushroom all over the capital. And it works. It works because it perfectly balances this lunch you had at the fast food next door and this cheap horrible wine you’ve put in your shopping basket last night. Unless you are the real bio kind and already have everything green in your cupboards. Then for you, going to le Garde-Robe is just the follow up of what’s already home. Careful, your blood may as well become green if you keep up!

Bio makes us feel good, in our body and in our minds. It is certainly expensive but so is going to the psychoanalyst or into drugs. One must choose where to invest to feel good. The Parisian invests in the bio product.

The whole problem comes to me when it is about defining what organic is. What is happening in the wine world is very shadowy. There is a lack of a simple definition and controversial effects of the organic vine care are not all rosy. Bio wine-makers are sometimes very rooted into the cause; others just follow the marketing trend to push their wines. Bio and biodynamic definition are also still fuzzy in consumer minds.

They will certainly define better, become compulsory and give more great wines for the best. For now, to hear them talk: the wine world is split into two – the pro and cons. Pesticides will progress in a better kind and bio wine makers will get better. I prefer thinking that you’d rather not turn bio if it is to harm your wine quality and your wallet. Tears in wine have never proven to be a good thing while the right amount of pesticides will probably save both –the wine and the wallet. Now if you can make the Morgon of Foillard I tried in London (Fish, Borough Market) or the red Tourraine-Mesland from Clos de la Briberie I had in NYC (Wine Bar, East Village), go for it! Parisians will certainly drink it!

Bio also makes the vineyard history, often fascinating and fairy.

All finally, to please Vicky.