Daniel Rose sounds French – Old Fashioned French – but it is the name of an American that is revolutionizing the French Cuisine at Spring since 2006 – a Modern Times’ Hero. Who could have thought that a young man from Chicago would have ever been capable of such an accomplishment? Not even Parisian!

I have spent half of my summer in Paris, rediscovering the city’s romantic sights, ambient wines and how beautiful people live. Next door from where I live was ‘Spring’, a tiny restaurant one could pass in front of every day without noticing. As soon as the name has buzzed into your ears it could take you up to 2 months before entering Daniel’s small world – Yes, the guy is Famous! he is also charming, funny and not pretentious for a penny. When eleven years ago, innocent and single, he came to study philosophy in Paris, he was the last one thinking he would end up cooking. Today Dan is closing Spring to relocate in the 1st district of Paris – Dan’s world is becoming bigger every day. Incroyable! As Parisians would say.

A good friend was coming to visit for the week-end and I had to honor him with the best and the coolest. So the day before I walked down to the restaurant, feeling lucky. Daniel inside checked his Mac computer and after 10 seconds hesitation kindly gave me his last remaining seats for Spring’s closing night. I didn’t complain, turned my back slowly and cracked a huge smile. Gosh I was lucky!

At Spring, tables are a little high, “or the chairs are a little low” as Daniel would say. To paint the picture, you are sitting on a table with eight others, the room is lit by candles and you watch the chef hard at work through the open kitchen. This for me is charm personified!

The concept is original and simple with a 4 dishes surprise menu. Everyone eats the same thing at the same time, which has the power to bond people as well as excite your senses. Your taste buds suddenly awake, ready to taste any special sent that they can possibly smell: sole, lemon and tomato soup, roasted eggplants, lobster and poached veal…

This is blind food and wine pairing, for Daniel there is no strict rules to food and wine matching. His guests should drink what pleases their palate and because “Les goût et les couleurs ne se ressemblent pas*”, the rule is no rules. The atmosphere was so warm and convivial, that on our table we all shared wines. On arrival you are given the “Spring liquids list,” liquid probably because according to Mr Rose, a wine is something to be drunk, never to be eaten unlike “Barossa Shiraz”. Dan likes happy wines, those that you can have more than a glass of without feeling them in your stomach or over your palate. Happy wines are balanced, fruity and easy drinking, easy drinking sounds dull for many but to me it is indeed one of the best qualities a wine can ever have (and for any doubts, here is the article to read).

One of Dan’s favorite “Liquid wine” comes from the Beaujolais region of France. The wines from Beaujolais are light, fruity, friendly happy wines. In this case it was a Moulin à Vent (Château de la Vénerie, 2007) and for my quarter century of experience , proved to be the perfect wine for the evening. To be frank, this revelation went off like a bombshell, a wine so simple could be so correct. Fresh red fruits, perfectly balanced and Al Dente, like my favorite food critique – Daniel Young – would say. How to make Vicky Wine happier? Well I have also tried a light Pinot Noir from Alsace, so light in color that you could think of a rosé but delicate in taste and fresh on the palate. Perfect to get a new start in between each dish.

Like at any traditional goodbye party, Champagne’s corks popped up into the quiet street, one first, then two… three…four? Soft bubbles, hazelnuts and a fresh finish. Happy night, happy people, happy Daniel and we wish we would all come back! But hey, this was the last! Hopefully the small Spring will reopen this fall in an even more authentic and down to earth setting, easier cooking and a set menu for tired city workers in need of fun and simplicity: “I want everyone to be dancing on the table”, “Back to Neanderthal” said Dan – hum, “façon de parler**” as we say. Dan is also famous at Spring for his Saturday Lobster sandwich & Fries in Duck fat so who knows what will come next in the small cuisine!

In January 2010 will also be the Opening of the new restaurant, wine bar and cellar, rue Bailleul. Another reason to celebrate – not a real ending but a new beginning! If you had never heard about Daniel Rose before this is only the start, get ready for more adventures and remember where to book before reaching Paris.